FQ13

Run into problems with my N14...

No start - No smoke, cranking fuel pressure at 11 psi (Logged into Cummins and 25 is required to start). Was able to scrounge up a fuel pump and build a good one out of two as well as a Dipaco repair kit. Typical to my past experiences with Dipaco half of the o-rings were wrong or missing (Universal o-ring kit to the rescue).

Cranking pressure of 28 psi... White smoke but still no start. ECM has battery voltage and both fuses are good. Injector circuit fault code 322 is stored but may be a bird. Does not flash check engine light with ignition but not sure if it ever did. Shut down light does flash.

To be continued...

Week: 70
Total: 258

FQ13

I did my starting/charging system test today and now I have two more trucks to do it on at work... Gotta love intermittent start problems! Going into brakes now as I was working on a Utility Trailer at work I'm learning the joys of parts support for aftermarket TPS and central lube systems. The TPS is a PSI system manufactured by Meritor so I was able to find the hose that I needed but the grease setup is its own nightmare. I had to retrofit the trailer over to newer style auto-slacks and inboard s-cam bushings which required a couple of "interesting" adapter fittings (You would not believe how long it took to find a 45 degree 1/4 x 28 - 1/8" NPT).

Hours for week: 68
Total: 188

FQ2013

Took the air brake pretest... Not good.

Moving on into brakes I have to do a brake job on a trailer with TPS. Should be interesting, what could go wrong right? I built a bearing washer that should speed up turn around time on my brake jobs quite a bit.

This week I've learned how to track down parasitic loads using a voltage drop across the fuse and I think I've come up with a way to track it even further using voltage drop testing. With a test lead on the ground post of the battery and the other test lead in hand, in theory one should be able to test all the way to the suspect component without an amp clamp. Since if there is no flow there is no current drop the reading will be 0.00 at the suspect component if it is not the culprit. However if there is a measureable voltage drop any point in the wiring harness (Test using back probe etc...) you can follow it all the way to the culprit.

Week: 60
Total: 120

Update

Failure on the cruise control problem... I thought I had it tracked down to the faulty park brake switch but after a jumper wire test fix still no cruise. The throttle set does work though so it's probably time to tear apart the dash and check the brake switch.

FQ2013

So I pulled the hubcap and found this... Looks like money to me!

Also in class I found the parasitic drain on the Peterbuilt and the International. Crimped a battery cable end as well as Deutsch and Weatherpack connector pins. My electrical is starting to come back to me now... I think I found why the cruise control doesn't work in one of our fleet trucks (We'll see tomorrow).

Hours: 60