Monday, April 28, 2014

SPQ2014

Becoming familiar with Paccar's new MX engine doing some recall work. Learning the "times" of warranty work... Paccar says it takes 0.9 hours to change the crankcase vent module and it took 5 hours Friday night. I did my second one on Saturday in 2 hours. I think I've figured out how to it a little faster but I'll still be an hour and half. Everything is so well fit together that one has to get creative with swivels and wobbly's to get at anything.

Worked on a newer Kenworth that the towing company brought in after they couldn't fix the brake lights. When I got into the fuse panel and saw jumper wires going across the front I had a bad feeling I knew what was wrong. Further inspection revealed a technician induced failure. Someone had obviously done some probing with a test light and spread the fuse terminals. Unfortunately you can't repair the fuse block. I pulled it thinking I could get in through the back but it's permanently assembled in 3 layers (Rear connections, circuit board, and the fuse/relay side). $1,000 fuse block ruined because someone didn't take the time to do it right.


My assigned "sensor" is actually a lift pump off a Cummins ISX. The seal between the pump housing and flange usually fails. It is a very small vane pump. I was able to find a diagram for it.


Parts have started coming in for my wiring project.


Week: 50
Total: 200 hours

Monday, April 21, 2014

SPQ2014

This is what helped me understand how a diode works http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/54977/how-does-a-diode-work

I've been doing a lot of electrical and suspension work lately. 2011 F-350 with inop work lights... An hour of following wire harnesses later I found the fuse block under the rear seat. I kind of like the setup and may do something similar with the wiring in my own truck. Keep all the relays and fuses out of the weather that way.



Also worked on a Kenworth with a tach that wasn't working. The fleet had replaced the tach and the sensor but it still wasn't working. Unplugged the gauge and had 12v power and ground with a 0.2v AC signal. Plugged the gauge back in and back probed it. The signal voltage dropped off completely as soon as you plugged the gauge in so I knew I had a wiring problem. I ended up finding the wires worn almost all the way through on the back of the engine block behind the exhaust. That was interesting trying to reach in with all my wiring tools behind the exhaust.

Did an alignment for the first time this week. Pretty easy actually. Also did all the boards this week with Travis again.

Week: 50

Monday, April 14, 2014

SPQ2014

Re-learned how to find a short this week... Had to stare blankly at my meter until it came back to me. Haven't needed to find many shorts recently. Working with Travis helped me out because he remembered some things I didn't. Got all of the lamp boards done and did the shorted boards as well as the fan motor boards. Did the 101 electrical self test too.



Well, a 1/4 steel plate can look nice but it takes some time with a 9" grinder.



Used Cummins EDS to diagnose a regen problem on a LTI truck on Saturday. They had changed the EGR valve but were still having problems and found the EGR differential pressure sensor had failed.

Week: 50 hours

Sunday, April 6, 2014

Winter 2014

Been doing some clean work lately... Fenders and lights on a 2015 Kenworth


Air solenoid valve for the interlock on a Volvo shorted out and kept blowing the fuse


ProStar was reading out on the speedometer while parked. Found the ECM harness rubbed on the ECM mounting bracket



I got a new tool box so now I have room to lay all of my tools out